Category Archives: road to damascus series

Road to Damascus 21 – Khalid ibn Walid Masjid

Description of Khalid ibn Walid Masjid

Khalid ibn Walid's Masjid in Homs

Khalid ibn Walid was called the “Sword of Islam” by the prophet (s). He was the greatest Muslim General in history. He opened Syria to Islam and is revered here as he chose it as his home for the last years of his life and died here. His Mosque is Turkish in design with these silver domes and looks cool at night when it is all lit up. The whole thing is built in a park which reminded me of palaces/mosques in India. All around were kids and families picnicking. There were drink stands and yes cotton candy and ice cream guys. They also have stands of beautiful stones, precious gem stones and I bought a number of them on behalf of a friend who was going to make jewelry from them.

To stand in front of his Qabr and pray is an overwhelming feeling. Just to know that you were in front of one of the greatest men in history. I don’t think I was ever so scared in front of anyone’s grave.

That big stone monument is actually a sword that curves, which is how they say Khalid ibn Walid’s sword was like. On it are the last words of Khalid ibn Walid. Something along the lines of: I have participated in hundreds of battles and now I am dying like an old man in my bed. Our teacher said that the reason he died like that and not in battle is that Allah did not want our greatest warrior to be shown to be defeated on the battlefield. SubhanAllah. And of course we know there are many who will die on their beds Shaheed.

Link to the pictures of Khalid ibn Walid Masjid

Road to Damascus 20 – Jamia Nabulsi

Description of Jamia Nabulsi

Nabulsi Mosque

Jamia just means ‘mosque’. Jamia Nabulsi is a mosque right down the street from our school. I remember going there a few times for taraweeh. The original Shaikh Nabulsi passed away but his son does Jumahs and used to do talks. I believe it was built in Mameluke style and you can see that from the rounded hexagonal minaret. The inside is particularly nice and well preserved, with a typical diwan (raised platform) for halaqat al ilm (study circles).

In all these pictures you can see more closely the different color bands of stones they used to create patterns or alternated when they built things. This is a hallmark of Islamic architecture of this era.

Link to the pictures of Jamia Nabulsi

Road to Damascus 19 – Ibn Kathir’s Madrasa

Description of Ibn Kathir’s Madrasa

Quran in Ibn Kathir's Madrasa

As part of our trip in Bosra we came to this oooold madrasa. It was Ibn Kathir’s school. Look at how cute the little door is. Apparently they kept them liliputian so that it would keep the heat out and the cool in. Once you get inside it’s dark and cool. We walked for about two hours in the desert sun before we got here and of course before that we were all over the amphitheater. We were extremely hot in our jilbabs and hijabs and sweating and dying of thirst. So as soon as I went in I went straight for the ‘zamzam tank’ (those big metal water tank things in every mosque, but never has real zamzam of course). Right after I drank a big metal cup of cold water, I sat down and took that video. And then it happened…everything started going black! I claim I didn’t pass out. Shaz said I looked unconscious. Whatever!! So lesson learned… when walking the desert ALWAYS have water and sip from it all day. Thereafter every trip we took we brought those 1 liter Boukein water bottles filled up. And man there were times when we were tromping around I’d drink 3 of those in a day.

Inside the madrasa there are two diwans or raised platforms on either side. One side was for studying and the other was for sleeping/eating. They also had these mini compartments for sleeping that were ‘dorm rooms’ for students. You can see a pic of that. The Quran in the pictures is a realllly old one. I forget how old, but it’s like 600 or 800 years old and in protective glass.

Link to the pictures of Ibn Kathir’s Madrassa

Road to Damascus 18 – Homs

Description of Homs

Strange trees in Homs

As you can see we saw a lot of Homs… just kidding. Homs is like a huge modern city. I think the third biggest in Syria. It looked a lot like modern downtown Damascus so I didn’t take any pictures. The pics that are here are of the countryside outside and YES the trees were all sideways bent like that. Kinda freaky I still can’t figure out why they’re like that. Someone told us wind, but can wind do that over time? They’re seriously growing sideways.

The main reason anyone goes to Homs besides that the bus station is a main transfer, is for Khalid ibn Waleed’s Mosque and tomb. See pics of those.

Link to the pictures of Homs

Road to Damascus 17 – Hama Great Mosque

Description of Hama Great Mosque

Hama's Great Mosque

I totally can’t remember the history of this Mosque. I’ll have to look it up in my journal and add it here sometime. You must recognize that it’s Ummayad now because the layout and architecture look so similar. The mosque did have two tombs of former sultans (kings) of Hama. And I remember the khadim (keeper of the mosque) was really nice and brought us around to the locked areas.

 

Link to the pictures of Hama Great Mosque

Road to Damascus 16 – Hama

Description of Hama

An ancient Noria in Hama

Hama was our hotel base of operations because it’s a city right in the middle of Syria. From there we went to Aleppo, Palmyra, Homs, Lattakia and everywhere else. It’s mainly famous for two things. The first are its incredible ancient water wheels, called “norias” in Arabic. These are huge and dot the river that winds all through the town. They were once built to pick up water from the river and bring them into some kind of irrigation system. I’ve yet to figure out how this works without electricity…pulley system or something? I should ask my Dad the physicist one day.

The first picture is of the Al-Nuri Mosque, built by or for Salahuddin’s uncle Nur al-Din Ayyubi. The courtyard is particularly beautiful and we prayed out here our first night in town. You can see it there across the river next to the big noria in the other pictures.

The second reason Hama is famous is that in 1982 there was an uprising of the Ikhwan al-Muslimoon here. Syria is and was a dictatorship. So they sent in the army and basically decimated the population and destroyed most of Hama in the process. 8,000 people were killed and even though it happenned over 20 years ago, no one has ever forgotten it. There is basically only one little street left of what was the old city. Everything else is new, including the parks around the river, the fancy restaurants, streets, etc.

I’m a big believer in a place having echoes of feelings. Echoes of the people who were there, the events that happened. Perhaps space-time records these things and some people who are sensitive enough can tune into them and feel them. Perhaps it is just good imagination. But whatever the case, any visitor to Hama can tell you that despite the pretty waterwheels and parks, the modern feel, the dead are still there and sometimes it feels like we’re walking over their graves.

Link to the pictures of Hama

Road to Damascus 15 – Habib Ali Event

Description of Habib Ali Event

Habib Ali in Dimashq

For those of you who don’t know Habib Ali is a famous shaikh from Yemen. He is very charismatic and young people love him. Many students go all the way to Sanaa, Yemen just to study with him. He came to Damascus and it was a really big event. All the students were invited and it was held in a courtyard of some houses. Not sure who owned it. Everything was set up really nice and he spoke very well although I only understood bits and pieces since it was all in Arabic! I have a video that’s about 10 minutes of his dua at the end, but it’s too big to put on here unfortunately.

Link to the pictures of Habib Ali Event